Swordfish Spiedini

1 . Stage

Light a grill. In a medium bowl, mix the oil with the herbes de Provence and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Add the swordfish cubes and toss to coat. Thread one sixth of the swordfish cubes and 1 slice of pancetta onto each of 6 skewers (or soaked rosemary sprigs), wrapping the pancetta around the fish as you go.

2 . Stage

Grill the spiedini over high heat, turning occasionally, until the swordfish is cooked through and lightly charred, 8 to 9 minutes. Transfer to plates and serve.

3 . Stage

Wine Recommendation: The medium-bodied white wines of Sicily, typically made from a blend of native grapes like Inzolia and Catarratto, match well with swordfish. Try the peachy 2005 Regaleali Bianco or the melony 2005 Ajello Majus.