Rigatoni alla Genovese

1 . Stage

Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add pancetta and cook until most of the fat is rendered, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon.

2 . Stage

Add beef chuck and 2 teaspoons salt to the pot. Increase the heat to high; cook and stir until browned and any liquid released begins to evaporate, 10 to 15 minutes.

3 . Stage

Reduce the heat to medium-high. Add cooked pancetta, celery, carrots, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper; cook and stir for 5 minutes. Add white wine, tomato paste, and bay leaf; cook and stir for 2 to 3 minutes, scraping up the drippings from the bottom of the pan.

4 . Stage

Add yellow and red onions. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 30 minutes without stirring. After 30 minutes, stir onions and meat until well mixed. Cover again and cook for 30 more minutes.

5 . Stage

Stir, then reduce the heat to low. Keep uncovered and cook, occasionally stirring and skimming off any fat, until beef and onions seem to melt into each other, 8 to 10 hours. If the sauce is reducing too much, add water or broth as needed to maintain a sauce-like consistency.

6 . Stage

When the sauce is almost finished, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Cook rigatoni in the boiling water, stirring occasionally until just barely al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain.

7 . Stage

Add rigatoni to the sauce and cook until heated through. Garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, marjoram, and cayenne. Chef John