Chef John's Deviled Shrimp Ragu

1 . Stage

Place shrimp shells into a saucepan with bay leaf and 1 pinch of smoked paprika over medium-low heat; cook and stir shells until they turn pink, about 5 minutes. Pour in water, bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, and simmer shrimp stock for 20 to 25 minutes.

2 . Stage

Mix lemon juice, ketchup, brown sugar, ground chipotle pepper, 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, garlic, 1 pinch of salt, and cayenne pepper in a bowl.

3 . Stage

Strain shrimp stock into a bowl; discard shells and bay leaf. Whisk shrimp stock into ketchup mixture and set aside.

4 . Stage

Heat vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat until small wisps of smoke rise from the skillet. Cook shrimp in the hot oil until bottom sides of shrimp are seared and browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in shrimp stock mixture and cook until shrimp are opaque, about 3 minutes. Transfer shrimp to a bowl using a slotted spoon, leaving sauce in skillet.

5 . Stage

Bring sauce to a boil and cook until sauce has reduced and thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in cold butter, turn off heat, and let residual heat of pan melt butter. Stir until butter has incorporated into sauce and sauce is slightly thickened.

6 . Stage

Stir shrimp into sauce and toss with chives. Serve shrimp with sauce.