Chipotle Chilaquiles

1 . Stage

In a blender, combine the tomatoes with their reserved 1/2 cup of liquid and the chipotles; blend until almost smooth.

2 . Stage

In a very large, deep skillet, heat the oil. Add two-thirds of the onion and cook over moderately high heat until browned around the edges, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the tomato puree and simmer, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the stock and boil the sauce over moderately high heat until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and remove from the heat.

3 . Stage

Gently stir the tortilla chips into the sauce, making sure they are well coated. Top with the remaining onion, the shredded chicken and the Parmesan cheese. Dollop the sour cream over the chilaquiles, sprinkle with the cilantro and serve immediately.

4 . Stage

Make Ahead: The recipe can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight. Reheat the chipotle-tomato sauce before proceeding.

5 . Stage

Notes: Queso anejo is an aged Spanish white cheese that's slightly salty.

6 . Stage

Wine Recommendation: The smoky-spicy flavors in this dish can be balanced best by a wine with lots of sweet fruit. Zinfandels, particularly from warmer regions like Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley, have a jammy richness that's ideal here. Two to try are Dry Creek Vineyard's peppery 2004 Heritage and Zahtila Vineyards' plummy 2004 Oddone Vineyard.